Pau village, Sumba: the weavers of the old Umalulu kingdom

The delta of the Melolo River is flat, green and humid, a patchwork of rice fields, coconut palms and slow brown water. In Pau, a few minutes off the main road, the loudest sound may be the rhythmic knock of a beater on a loom. A woman sits on the floor of a raised veranda, legs straight out, a backstrap loom tied around her hips, picking up threads one by one with a thin stick to build a raised pattern of birds and figures. Beside her, an older woman winds yarn. Nobody hurries.

Pau is not a showpiece village. It is a place to slow down, watch skilled work and learn about one of Sumba's great textile traditions.

What it is and why go

Pau lies in Umalulu district, in the Melolo River delta. Textile researchers describe it as the former royal domain of the area, with its royal centre at Uma Bara beside the royal enclosure of Watu Panunggul. The name is said to mean "mango". Travel guides mention Pau with Umabara as villages with some of the finest weaving in Sumba, and one local guide site calls Pau the highlight of the delta villages.

Pau is especially known for pahikung, a supplementary warp technique woven on backstrap looms to create raised patterns on lau (women's tube skirts) and on hinggi (men's cloths). It is done by women, including noblewomen, and passed from mother to daughter. Noble families of Pau are linked by marriage to the royal house of Praiyawang in Rende, and girls from there have traditionally come to Pau to learn the craft.

How to get there

From Waingapu, follow the paved coastal road south-east towards Melolo; Pau is reached from the Waingapu road just before the bridge over the Melolo River. Allow roughly 1.5-2 hours by car for about 60-65 km. Buses from Waingapu to Melolo take a little over 2 hours.

• From Waingapu airport (WGP): about 1.5-2 hours.
• From Tambolaka (TMC): about 4-5 hours to Waingapu first; visit from an East Sumba base.

Once there, the delta villages can be explored on foot over a few hours. A local guide helps with introductions and translation. On the way, the coastal road between Waingapu and Melolo passes rice fields edged with coconut palms and, about an hour south of Waingapu, the roadside lakes and marshes of Menggitimbi, a good spot for birdwatching.

When to go and best time of day

• Time of day: mornings, when weavers are working and it is cooler.
• Days: Monday to Saturday; Sundays are usually for church and family.
• Season: the dry season (roughly May-November in the east) gives easier roads. Weaving goes on all year.

Tips and etiquette

• Donation: no ticket. If there is a guest book, sign it and leave a contribution, typically around IDR 20,000-50,000 per person (2025-2026), or more if someone spends time explaining their work.
• Watch, don't touch: do not handle looms or cloth in progress without asking. Some techniques are closely guarded, so accept a "no" to photos of a pattern.
• Buying: pahikung and naturally dyed ikat take a very long time to make, so prices are high and fair. Buy directly from the weaver if you can.
• Respect: ask before photographing people, keep off tombs, and dress modestly.
• Safety: crocodiles live in the Melolo River. Do not swim in the river or at the river mouth.

Nearby

• Rende, the royal village with megalithic tombs about 7 km south of Melolo.
• Waimarang waterfall, a turquoise forest pool inland from Melolo.
• Walakiri Beach, on the coast road back to Waingapu.
• Prailiu, the royal weaving village in Waingapu.

More background in our guide to Marapu, ikat and the traditional villages.