Kodi, Sumba: villages, beaches and Pasola in the far west

Drive west from Tambolaka and the land flattens into low grassy plains and maize fields. Then the roofs start: tall thatched peaks above the palms, one village after another, stone tombs in front of the houses and children waving from the verges. The road ends at the ocean, where reef breaks peel along the shore, fishing canoes lie on the sand and in February the plains fill with horsemen for the Pasola. This is Kodi, the westernmost corner of Sumba and, for many travellers, the most memorable.

What Kodi is and why go

Kodi is both a people and a place. The Kodi are one of Sumba's ethnic groups, with their own language (Kodi, spoken by around 20,000 people according to one estimate and considered endangered) and a strong oral tradition of ritual poetry and prayer. Many follow Marapu, the ancestral belief; others are Christian, and Pero on the coast is a mainly Muslim fishing village.

Administratively, the old Kodi area of Southwest Sumba is now four districts: Kodi (around Bondo Kodi, the largest village in the west), Kodi Utara (north, with Weekuri and Mandorak), Kodi Bangedo (with Ratenggaro) and Kodi Balaghar (with Wainyapu). Together they cover about 496 km² and an estimated 122,000 people as of mid-2025.

Why go:

• Traditional villages with some of the tallest roofs in Sumba and hundreds of megalithic tombs, still used and still being built: Ratenggaro and Wainyapu are the best known.
• Coast: Weekuri Lagoon, Mandorak, Pero, Bawana and Watu Maladong.
• Pasola: the Kodi Pasola, a ritual battle on horseback with blunt spears, is usually held in February, around the nyale sea-worm ceremonies; dates are set by the Rato elders. See Pasola explained.
• Weaving: Kodi ikat and indigo-dyed cloth are sold across West Sumba.

How to get to Kodi

Kodi starts roughly 30-40 km west of Tambolaka, and the coastal sights are about 40-63 km from town depending on the place. Allow roughly 1-2 hours each way by car.

• Car with driver from Tambolaka (TMC): around IDR 1,000,000-1,500,000 (about EUR 50-75 / USD 60-90) per day in 2025-2026; prices vary. This is the most practical way to link several sights in a day. Grab and Gojek do not operate here.
• Public minibus: shared minibuses run from Waitabula to Bondo Kodi in about an hour, leaving when full during the day; travellers have reported around IDR 20,000. Then ojek to beaches and villages.
• Scooter: only for experienced riders; roads can be rough and signage is poor.
• From Waingapu (WGP): roughly 4-6 hours by road to Tambolaka first. See how to get to Sumba from Bali.

When to go and best time of day

The dry season, roughly May to September, brings the easiest roads and clearest water. Rain falls roughly from October or November to April, and some tracks become slow after heavy rain. February is Pasola month in Kodi: unforgettable, but crowded, and dates can change. Start days early, plan beaches around the tide, and be back on main roads before dark: travel writers have warned that drivers avoid remote Kodi roads at night.

Tips and etiquette

• Cash: there are no ATMs in Kodi. Withdraw in Tambolaka and carry small notes for donations and parking.
• Fees: villages ask for a donation via a guest book, around IDR 20,000 per person or more; beaches charge informal fees of around IDR 10,000-20,000 (2025-2026). Agree amounts politely before paying.
• Villages are homes: ask before photos, dress modestly, never touch tombs or ritual objects, and bring sirih pinang (betel and areca) as a greeting gift. Read Marapu, ikat and traditional villages first.
• Water safety: many beaches have strong currents and no lifeguards, and estuaries can have crocodiles.
• Pemali: some places are taboo (pemali) for outsiders or for photos. Ask your driver or guide.

Nearby

• Tambolaka: the airport town and supply base, 1-2 hours east.
• Weekuri Lagoon and Ratenggaro: the two classic stops.
• Waikabubak: West Sumba's capital, with more traditional villages.