· New stories every morning at 6:00 Sumba time (WITA) ⚲ SearchENESID
The Sumba Times
News, culture and travel from the island of Sumba, Indonesia

Culture

The Pasola, explained: Sumba's ritual battle on horseback

Riders throw blunt wooden spears at each other across an open field. It is not a show. It is a ritual that opens the planting season.

By The Sumba Times deskPublished 1 min read
A rider during the Pasola in western Sumba.
A rider during the Pasola in western Sumba. Photo: RaiyaniM (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Every year, usually in February and March, horsemen in West and Southwest Sumba gather in two teams on an open field and charge at each other, throwing wooden spears while they dodge. This is the Pasola.

Why it happens

The Pasola belongs to Marapu, the ancestral religion of Sumba. It is tied to the farming year and to the ancestors. Older accounts say that blood spilled on the field fed the land. Today the spears are blunt, but the ritual meaning remains.

Who sets the date

There is no fixed date on the calendar. The rato, the traditional elders, read the signs. One of them is the arrival of the nyale, sea worms that appear on the shore. When the nyale come, the Pasola can begin.

Where

In the regions of Kodi, Lamboya, Wanokaka and Gaura. Most visitors stay near Tambolaka and drive up to about 2.5 hours to the fields.

2026, for reference

Local schedules announced for 2026 were 9-11 February (Homba Kalayo, Bondo Kawango, Rara Winyo) and 9-11 March (Maliti Bondo Ate, Wai Ha, Wainyapu). Dates for 2027 will depend, as always, on the elders.

How to be a good guest

  • Remember that this is a ritual, not a performance for tourists.
  • Dress modestly and stay well back from the field. Riders fall, and horses run where they want.
  • Ask before photographing people, especially during the ceremonies around the battle.
  • Bring water, sun protection and cash. There is usually no ticket.
  • Go with a local guide or driver who can tell you when and where to be.
Planning a trip to Sumba? Our free guides cover when to go, how to get around, costs, safety and culture. Plan your trip →

Low Tide, every Sunday

One short letter a week about living well, from an island with more horses than traffic lights. Free.

We only use your email to send the letter. Unsubscribe in one click.

Related stories

Betel leaf, areca nut and lime (sirih pinang kapur), offered to guests across East Sumba.

Culture

What to eat in Sumba: local dishes, markets and coffee

Corn and rice, sweet katemak, grilled fish by the harbour, betel nut on every veranda and an award-winning robusta: a practical guide to eating well and politely in Sumba.

· 8 min read
Tied ikat threads drying in the sun after dyeing, Sumba.

Culture

Sumba ikat: how it is made, what it means and where to buy it from the weavers

A single hinggi can take most of a year to make, and every horse, shrimp and skull tree on it says something. Here is how to read it, where to watch it being woven and how to buy one fairly.

· 9 min read
Sandalwood ponies grazing freely on the grasslands of Sumba, where owners let their horses roam to feed.

Culture

The horses of Sumba: the Sandalwood pony, the Pasola and horse culture

Small, fast and sacred: why the Sandalwood pony is part of every Sumbanese wedding, funeral and festival, and how to see these horses without disturbing them.

· 7 min read