Bawana (Mbawana) Beach, Sumba: getting there and what to know

From the top of the cliff the coast falls away in layers: green scrub, then bands of ochre and grey rock, then a long apron of golden sand and the Indian Ocean breaking white over a reef. Seabirds wheel below you. On the way down the steps the sound of the surf grows until it fills everything, and at the bottom the sand is so soft and wide at low tide that the cliffs behind you look like a wall of a canyon.

For years this beach was famous for a single feature: a huge stone arch on a narrow cape, which locals called Batu Bolong (rock with a hole) or Batu Cincin (ring rock). That arch is gone, but the beach is still one of the most dramatic places on the south-west coast of Sumba. Here is what to expect now.

What Bawana Beach is and why go

Bawana goes by several names: Mbawana, Bawana, Bwanna, Banna and, on some road signs, Radar, after the nearby headland. It lies in Desa Panenggo Ede in the Kodi area of Southwest Sumba (sources place it in Kodi Bangedo or the newer Kodi Balaghar district). In 2017 it was nominated in a national tourism award as a popular new destination.

The arch collapsed in mid-November 2020. Indonesian media reported that it fell overnight; the head of the Southwest Sumba tourism office attributed it to waves from the southern sea and frequent earthquakes. Nobody was hurt. A 2026 report describes the rubble partly carried away by the sea and the remaining blocks scattered along the beach. Some websites and tour descriptions still show the arch, so do not be surprised: what you come for now is the sweep of sand, the cliffs and the view from the headland.

How to get to Bawana Beach

Bawana is on the south coast of the Kodi area, roughly 52-60 km from Tambolaka. Allow about 1.5-2 hours by car each way; the fastest route runs through Kodi Bangedo, past villages with tall thatched roofs.

• From Tambolaka (TMC): hire a car with driver for the day, around IDR 1,000,000-1,500,000 (about EUR 50-75 / USD 60-90) in 2025-2026; prices vary. Private transport is essential, as there is no public transport to the beach.
• Directions: because of the many names, ask locally for "batu bolong" or "Pantai Mbawana". The last stretch is a narrow track to a parking area.
• From Waingapu (WGP): the far side of the island, roughly 4-6 hours to Tambolaka by road before heading south-west; plan a night in the west.

From the parking area, a steep stairway of around 300 steps leads down the cliff. It is slippery when wet and tiring on the way back up in the heat.

When to go and best time of day

Come in the dry season, roughly May to September, when the roads and steps are dry. Check the tide before you go: at low tide the beach stretches wide and you can walk along it; at high tide the sea covers much of the sand. The coast faces west and south, so late afternoon gives warm light on the cliffs, but leave enough daylight to climb the steps and drive back. Travel writers have advised against driving the remote Kodi roads after dark.

Tips and etiquette

• Fees: reports vary between around IDR 10,000 and 20,000 per person (about EUR 0.60-1.20 / USD 0.60-1.20) in 2024-2026, plus parking. Local guides sometimes offer to show the path for a small fee. Keep small notes.
• Swimming: the sea here is rough, with big waves that attract surfers. Paddle only in calm shallows at low tide, and never alone. There are no lifeguards.
• Safety: stay away from the base of the cliffs and from the remaining rock blocks, which can still move. Wear shoes with grip for the steps.
• What to bring: plenty of water, sun protection, snacks and cash. Facilities are minimal.
• Respect: the land belongs to local families. Take your rubbish back up, ask before photographing people and ask before flying a drone.

Nearby

• Watu Maladong Beach: limestone rock islands just to the east, an easy pairing on the same trip.
• Wainyapu village: a large traditional village with hundreds of stone tombs, less than 20 km to the west.
• Ratenggaro village: the tallest roofs in Kodi, across the estuary from Wainyapu.
• Kodi: the region and its culture, including the Pasola.

For more coastline, see our guide to Sumba's beaches, lagoons and waterfalls.