Laiwangi Wanggameti National Park, Sumba: forest and highest peak

Climb out of the dry eastern grasslands and the air changes. The road to Wanggameti winds up through hills that grow steadily greener until you are among tall trees hung with moss, mist drifting between the trunks and the ground soft with leaves. Somewhere above, a flock of cockatoos screeches past; a hornbill's wings whoosh like a passing train. Down in Waingapu it may not have rained for months. Up here the forest drips.

Laiwangi Wanggameti is Sumba's largest remaining block of forest and its most remote national park. It is not set up for casual tourism, which is exactly why it rewards birdwatchers, hikers and anyone curious about the island's wild side.

What it is and why go

The park was established in 1998 and covers about 470 km2 in the south-east of East Sumba. Since 2016 it has been managed jointly with Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park in the west under the name Matalawa. It protects most of the forest types found on Sumba and is the island's main water catchment in the east.

For birders it is the big draw. Species recorded in the park include the citron-crested cockatoo, Sumba green pigeon, Sumba buttonquail, Sumba flycatcher, Sumba cicadabird and apricot-breasted sunbird. The combined Matalawa parks count 84 bird species, 10 of them found only on Sumba, and BirdLife International lists the area as an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area.

Hikers come for Gunung Wanggameti, 1,225 m, the highest point on Sumba. The route is a forest walk with many ups and downs rather than a technical climb. Tour operators also take visitors to waterfalls in and around the park, such as Laputi.

How to get there

The usual access is from Waingapu, via the town of Tanarara (roughly 57 km and 2-2.5 hours) and then another 1-1.5 hours on rough roads to Wanggameti village. Allow about 3-4 hours in total by car; a 4WD or a high-clearance vehicle helps, especially after rain.

• From Waingapu airport (WGP): about 3-4 hours to the Wanggameti trailhead. Plan at least one night near the park.
• From Tambolaka (TMC): about 4-5 hours to Waingapu first; this is a separate East Sumba trip of two days or more.

The summit hike: the trailhead is at about 1,160 m, roughly 1.5 km past the park entrance booth above Wanggameti village. It is about 7 km to the top, roughly 3 hours each way including breaks. There is no water on the trail.

When to go and best time of day

• Season: the dry season, roughly May-October, is strongly recommended. In the rainy season roads are harder and leeches are numerous in the forest.
• Time of day: start at first light. Birds are most active in the early morning, the forest is cooler, and cloud often builds on the summit by midday.

Tips and etiquette

• Permits and fees: contact the Matalawa National Park office in Waingapu (Jalan Adam Malik) before you go to ask about current permits, entrance fees and staying at the park post. Fees for Indonesian national parks are usually modest, but confirm them; they change.
• Guides: hire a local guide in Wanggameti village. It supports the community, and trails are not always obvious.
• Bring: all the water you need, food (the last small shops are in Tanarara), rain gear, leech socks in the wet season, binoculars and a headlamp.
• Respect: forests in Sumba can hold places that are sacred in Marapu belief. Follow your guide, do not enter marked or fenced sites, and do not collect plants or animals.
• Wildlife: keep noise low, never feed animals, and do not play bird calls repeatedly.

Nearby

• Tarimbang Beach, the south coast bay west of the park.
• Waimarang waterfall, a turquoise pool on the road towards Kananggar.
• Waingapu town, the starting point and park office.
• Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park, its sister park in the west.